The Truth About Silicones and Why it is My Favorite Cosmetic Ingredient

While becoming a cosmetic chemist, I have learned that there is a lot more science and marketing behind each and every product we use. From each ingredient used to the final touches on a packaging influence how and why we choose specific products. However, the most important thing that I have learned is that there is a lot of marketing and horribly uneducated influencers that shift the direction of the trends in cosmetics. The best and most recent example is the idea that natural/ organic formulas are the best cosmetics for your health, but they are not as effective and they are not always healthy which was proven recently by Herbivore.  They had to recall their moisturizer due to their being issues with the product going bad (mold buildup), otherwise not being preserved well because it is ‘all- natural’.

With that being said, I am not the biggest fan of the natural direction; I am a fan of clean, safe, and effective materials and products. One of my favorite ingredients to work with are silicones. There has been quite the misconception about silicones. So I want to clear things up and discuss why I am all about the silicones.

What are silicones?

Silicones are an organic compound which has an alternating Silicon (Si) and Oxygen (O) atoms. They are typically made from silica or silica metals which go through a series of reactions and are isolated to get a ‘pure’ form of the desired silicone. There are many different types of silicones that have slightly different molecular additions to give a large variety of different applications. When looking for them on the back of cosmetics in the ingredient list, you can identify them by looking for names that typically end in -cone or -siloxane.

Where the myth started and where it stands today?

Silicones really got a bad reputation when there were studies done that showed a correlation in silicone breast implants and cancer. This lead for the FDA to ban silicone breast implants until they were later deemed safe. The major issue is that it was not the silicone implants causing the cancer, but rather the rough surface of the implants interacting with the tissue around it. Today, people are becoming more concerned with silicones because there have been animal studies that show bioaccumulation and environmental hazards with cyclomethicones such as D4 and D5. With the amount of silicones going into each product, there is no harm that can be done physically. In terms of the environment, the silicones can cause buildup but this is also rare to happen when they are put into a formula. There is also talk of the products not being good for the hair and skin because silicones do not let moisture back in and this is false (see why below). They also are concerned that silicones in hair weighs down the hair. When formulated properly and used with the correct hair type, silicones are great for the hair. Anyone who says different is just trying to get you a part of their marketing scheme.

Why I like them?

1.       Best part about silicones is that they are a semi-occlusive which means that even though they create a layer on the hair or skin, they still allow for some breathing. This makes silicones one of the best moisturization ingredients.

2.       The first thing I learned in drug delivery is that actives or ‘drugs’ will delivery more efficiently when they are accompanied by an occlusive or something that is going to help create a layer on the skin. As I mentioned above, silicones are great for moisturization which allows for other actives to penetrate the skin or the hair better, thus creating a more effective results for healthy skin and hair.

3.       Silicones are best known for feeling really good. I get super excited in the lab when I get to start working with silicones, especially crosspolymer silicones, because they leave my skin feeling super soft.

4.       Silicones are the best thing for hair, especially girls with dry curly hair like mine. In order for the hair to provide more shine, the cuticle or outer layer cells need to be pushed down (usually curly or dry hair have lifted hair cuticles) which refracts the light differently giving a shiny healthy look.

5.       The first thing I learned when starting in foundations is that silicones are also one of the best makeup materials. It allows for a nice spread and also allows for the makeup to go on nicer and provide a smoother even coverage. Without silicones or the proper silicones, pilling and unevenness can significantly appear when applying makeup.

Now that you know a couple reasons as to why cosmetics use such a synthetic chemical material like silicone, do not believe everything that that you hear about them. It is very frustrating to see many of the blogger/ influencer articles talk bad about materials that are a marketing scheme. They are in fact safe and one of the best materials to use in skin care and hair care.